Prelude
I have compared 45 different papers for markers. I have not included any papers that are not specified for markers by the company that produce them. It is not uncommon that an art store will market a paper as a marker-paper but if you look at the brands homepage they are not label as a marker paper. But with that said, a lot of other kinds of paper can work very well with markers, for example watercolor paper (even though they will “eat” the ink in the marker a lot faster than any other paper). I also tried some Japanese sumi-e paper with good and interesting result. I might write more about that in the future. For now, this is a marker paper review.
I have compared 45 different papers for markers. I have not included any papers that are not specified for markers by the company that produce them. It is not uncommon that an art store will market a paper as a marker-paper but if you look at the brands homepage they are not label as a marker paper. But with that said, a lot of other kinds of paper can work very well with markers, for example watercolor paper (even though they will “eat” the ink in the marker a lot faster than any other paper). I also tried some Japanese sumi-e paper with good and interesting result. I might write more about that in the future. For now, this is a marker paper review.
The theory and method
I will
start with a group of eight paper, the very thin papers for layout. I categorized the
thin layout paper as being between 45 g/m2 and 65 g/m2.
Since it is
layout paper and not drawing paper for final work, I will not test them to
harshly on properties as blending capacity or layering capacity. It isn´t after
all what the paper is meant to be.
I started
with some small samples to se color saturation and value, bleeding and
feathering to mention some of the things I look for. However, I am a firm
believer in working the paper as you normally would, to be able to fully
understand the potential the paper has, so I decided to do a drawing on every
paper.
Before I
started my drawing I wrote down the brand name of the paper. I then covered the
name so I wouldn't se which paper I was working on. I wanted it to be a blind
test.
I have
earlier tried to do the exact same drawing but find that that is only working
if you compare two or three items. When you compare many items (as I did; I
compared 29 markers) the chances are huge that the first couples of drawings
are a less good than the following (because you are learning) and the last ones
are pretty bad because it get so monotonous that it is very difficult to do a
good job. At least that is true for me. I therefore chose to draw every drawing
different but in the same manner and the same subject (in this case, one girl
stood model for all drawings). I also chose to use few colors so that the face
would have the exact same colors. I did the skin on every paper before moving
on to the hair since it where easier to compare the paper in that way. I let myself
have the freedom to use different hair colors after that.
Daler & Rowney Graphic series
It's an acid free 45g/m2 paper. They are available in pads in three sizes: A4, A3 and A2.
The paper
is smooth and white. The front- and backside of the paper are a like. Because
the paper is so thin you can draw something on the backside and turn the paper
around and no one will know.
One
downside to this paper is that it bleeds a lot on to the surface underneath.
Daler & Rowney pad |
The colors
(in comparison to the other brands) have very good value and saturation.
All colors
look great on this paper. I had no problems with feather or grainy spots at
all.
Daler & Rowneys paper also has good layer
and blending abilities.
Conclusion:
I think this is a very good paper. The downside of bleeding is easy to overcome
by putting a paper you don't value underneath.
Daler & Rowney color sample |
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