Prelude
I have
compared 45 different papers for markers. I have not included papers that are
not specified for markers by the company that produce them. It is not uncommon
that an art store will market a paper as a marker-paper but if you look at the
brands homepage they are not label as a marker paper. But with that said, a lot
of other kinds of paper can work very well with markers, for example watercolor
paper (even though they will “eat” the ink in the marker a lot faster than any
other paper). I also tried some Japanese sumi-e paper with good and interesting
result. I might write more about that in
the future. For now, this is a marker paper review.
The theory and method for the somewhat thicker
marker paper (110-120 g/m2)
I started
with some small samples to se color saturation and value, bleeding and
feathering.
I am a firm
believer in working the paper as you normally would, to be able to fully
understand the potential the paper has, so I decided to do a drawing on every
paper.
I especially
wanted to test the blending and layering abilities. With blending I mean that I
work wheat in wheat, and with layering I let the ink dry before I put another
layer on top.
Before I
started my drawing I wrote down the name of the brand on the paper. I then
covered the name so I wouldn't se which paper I was working on. I wanted it to
be a blind test.
I have
earlier tried to do the exact same drawing but found that this only works if
you compare two or three of them. When you compare many items (as I have done
earlier; I compared 30 markers, and now I compare a lot of papers) the chances
are huge that the first couples of drawings are a less good than the following
(because you are learning) and the last ones are pretty bad because it get so
monotonous that it is very difficult to do a good job. At least that is true
for me. I therefore chose to draw every drawing different but in the same
manner and use the same subject (in this case, one girl stood model for all
drawings). I also chose to use the same colors for the face and hair on every
drawing.
Hahnemühle Manga Illustration paper 120 g
Hahnemühle |
The
well-known old German company Hanhemühle, has several “manga” paper. This one
is available in A4 or A3 size, in packs of 30 sheets. They are acid free.
This is
very smooth paper. The back and front seems to be the same, you can draw on
either side.
This paper
took a while to get used to for me. It works different than most paper I have
used regularly. It is impossible to blend (in the way you can on most of the
thinner marker paper). But if you switch
to a layering method you suddenly realized that this is a very good paper.
The ink
stays where you intend. That is very rare. I usually count on the ink floating
out a little bit. I have learned to not only live with that, but also to use it
to help me with my blending. On this paper I found I had to change my way of
drawing. Since the colors stays exactly
where you put it, it is easy to get sharp edges on this paper. However, the downside
of that is that it isn’t forgiving. If you make a mistake, it is very difficult
to remove the color. I guess I could summarize all I talk about as the ink
quickly dries on this paper, making it difficult to blend, but if you instead
use a layering technique the paper will be really good. All markers I have tried
on this paper works very well.
Markers
loose value when they dry, but that problems seem not to be true on this paper.
The colors I laid down seem to keep the value.
A strange thing is, that on the color samples I did, all color seemed
much lighter than other average paper, but on the drawing I made, all the
colors looked very dark (on this paper, compared to other papers).
Sketch done on Hahnemühle paper |
The ink
will bleed through to the next page. The downside of bleeding is however easy
to overcome by putting a paper you don't value underneath.
Conclusion: This is a very good paper
Color sample on Hahnemühle paper |
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